Chef Gigi Gaggero

Poire à la Beaujolaise translates to pear in wine and is a traditional dessert of the wine-growing region of Beaujolais, and one of the first menu items I ever dared to reproduce as a professional pastry chef while working in Sonoma, California. So very early in my career, and it turned out to be a big hit. As any chef, I put my spin on it with additional flavors. The hues are especially impressive, as the pears remain translucent on the interior but are perfumed with red wine on the surface, which makes for a stunning presentation. I love the optional ways to serve it like this: stuffed with dessert cheeses and nutmeats and served in spiked syrup. Experiment with your favorite flavors.

You’ll Need:

6 firm but ripe pears, such as Comice or Bartlett

Juice of ½ lemon

1 large orange, washed, peeled with vegetable peeler, pith left intact, and juiced

1 bottle Beaujolais or other fruity red wine

1/4 cup local honey

1 heaping tablespoon dark muscovado or brown sugar, whatever you have on hand

1 tablespoons peppercorns

Two cinnamon sticks

1/4 piece of whole nutmeg or a good pinch of fresh ground

5 whole cloves

1 sheet of frozen store-bought puff dough, cut into six equal squares

Optional: My recipe for Creme Anglais, warmed (see below), to spoon over puff dough while serving, or you can philander and heat a pint of good quality vanilla bean ice cream. Up to you. The ice cream trick is a desperate measure, but it has its place in emergencies. ( Yes, I said that )

Here’s How :

Step 1: Fill a bowl with water and add the lemon juice. Peel the pears from the bottom up towards the top of the stem, taking care to leave the stem intact. I also slice a very small piece off the bottom to control the proper standing of the pear when plated. In this recipe, they will be secured in a ramekin, so you won’t need to worry. However, if you are serving on a plate, I will slice them to level. If serving Cream Anglais with this recipe, make it the day before to save time. Just heat it before serving. Tip: Choose pears that are firm but not too hard, and make sure the Creme Anglais doesn’t boil to prevent curdling.

Step 2: Gently place the pears in the bowl of lemon water. Let them soak while you work on the remaining prep. The citric acid in the lemon helps resist fruit browning, gives a flavor nod, and firms the meat up for the quick poach ahead. Since we are poaching in red wine, the browning would not matter.

Step 3: Add all the spices and the orange peels into a cheesecloth pouch and place in a large saucepan. Add the wine, honey, and sugar to a gentle simmer. Simmer for 10 minutes for the flavors to come together. Beaujolais or other fruity red wines are used for their light and fruity flavor, which complements the sweetness of the pears and the spices.

Step 4: Drain the pears from the lemon water and carefully add them to the wine. Simmer gently for 10 minutes or until a small paring knife can be gently inserted at the bottom.

Step 5: When ready, remove from the heat and allow the pears to cool in the liquid, absorbing all the flavor. Discard the cheesecloth bag.

Step 6: Butter the ramekins and blanket each square halfway into the ramekin. Dramatically draping a portion of the square on the side of the rim and pushing the bottom in like a pie crust. Poke a fork, breaking layers on the interior of the dough so it impedes it from rising in this spot, but leave the sides to puff. ( remember, later, we will place the pear inside )

Step 7: Bake to the manufacturer’s directions, punching down the center. Cool. Place the pears in the center of the baked puff dough in the ramakins. Return the wine to the saucepan and bring to a boil. Reduce by half its volume to syrupy. Spoon over the top pears. Serve the pears warm, room temperature, or chilled! There are so many options in this recipe.

Chef’s Note: You can also core pears from the bottom up with an apple corer tool, stuff them with sweetened creamed dessert cheeses and nutmeats, and chill—but this must be kept for another post. Yikes, I’m making myself drool again.

Cream Anglaise

You’ll Need

1/2 cup whole milk

1/2 cup heavy whipping cream

1 vanilla bean, split and scraped

3 large egg yolks

3 tablespoons granulated sugar

Here’s How:

Step 1:

Combine milk and cream in a heavy-bottomed medium saucepan. Scrape in the seeds from the vanilla bean; add the bean. Bring the milk mixture to a simmer. Remove from heat. Set aside.

Step 2:

Whisk egg yolks and sugar in a medium bowl to frothly. Gradually whisk a little of the hot milk mixture into the yolk mixture to temper the eggs and prevent them from scrambling. Return the tempered egg mixture to the saucepan. Stir over very low heat until the custard thickens and leaves a path on the back of the spoon when your finger is drawn across and leaves a path, about 5 minutes – whatever you do, do not boil or walk away.

Step 3: Strain the sauce into a small bowl. Place the whole bowl with the sauce inside into a giant bowl filled with ice and a little water. This will help the sauce chill rapidly, reducing the chance of your eggs scrambling. This recipe can be made one day ahead, too! So good!